Ingredients · 4 min read
Shea butter and vitamin E: the quiet workhorses of a balm
By Aarti Solanki · Updated
The short answer
Shea butter is a rich plant butter that softens skin and helps hold moisture in; vitamin E (tocopherol) is an antioxidant that supports skin and helps keep the oils in a formula from going rancid. Together they make a balm that conditions on contact and stays fresh on the shelf.
- Shea butter softens, cushions and slows moisture loss.
- Vitamin E is both a skin antioxidant and a natural formula stabiliser.
- Ingredient order on an INCI list tells you roughly how much is in there.
- Unrefined shea has a nutty smell; that is a sign of processing, not quality loss.
What shea butter does
Shea butter comes from the nut of the African shea tree. It is solid at room temperature and melts at skin temperature, which is why a balm feels firm in the tin and slips easily onto the lip or hand.
It is high in oleic and stearic acids plus naturally occurring vitamins A and E. On skin it does two things at once: softens the surface and reduces how fast water escapes.
What vitamin E does
On the label it usually reads as tocopherol. It is a fat-soluble antioxidant that helps protect skin lipids, and it slows oxidation in the product itself, which is why a well-made natural balm does not smell like old crayons after three months.
How to read the label
INCI lists are ordered by amount, highest first, down to one per cent. If shea butter appears near the top, there is a meaningful amount in there. If it sits at the very end next to the fragrance, it is a marketing appearance.
We publish the full INCI list for every product in one place, with allergens and age guidance next to it, so you can make that judgement yourself.
Nut allergies
Shea comes from a tree nut. Reactions are rare, but if there is a nut allergy in your household, read the ingredient list before use and patch test. Our allergen notes state this on every relevant product.
Questions people ask
Is shea butter good for very dry skin?
Yes. Its mix of fatty acids softens the surface and slows water loss, which makes it a good choice for hands, elbows, knees and lips in cold weather.
Does shea butter clog pores?
It is richer than lighter oils and some people prefer not to use it on the face. On lips, hands and body it is very well tolerated.
Is vitamin E a preservative?
Not exactly. It is an antioxidant that slows oils from going rancid. Waterless formulations like balms need far less preservation than water-based products in the first place.
